Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Hurricane Cristobal Swell 8/28/14

Hurricane Cristobal  delivered some great surf to the Outer Banks . On the morning of 8/28   the storm was parallel to the coast a few hundred miles offshore. As luck had it the winds were blowing  west (straight offshore) at 10-15  MPH at first light and then dropped off to  10 MPH  mid morning  and stayed this way until about 3 PM when the cold front finally blew in.  In case any one was unaware   the best thing about living in Hampton Roads isn't Va. Beach or Williamsburg. Its the close  proximity of  the  Outer Banks . Roughly 2 hrs  to Hatteras Island and only about an hr to an hour 1/2 or so  to town considering what part of the 757 you live in 

Pulling into town (Kitty Hawk) just after sunrise to reveal beautiful glassy conditions and a nice swell in the water.Looks real fun but keep driving down south a bit farther to find a spot that is barreling.

Don't let the number of cars fool you here. On this day the entire town of Rodanthe was breaking well and not just a few standout spots  so the crowd was spread out and everyone got barreled!



Welcome to Rodanthe. Overhead with very makeable barrels . I spent just a couple minutes checking the waves with cam in hand and snapped these 2 pics right  before I ran to get my board and head out.

Look close  there's a guy about to get pitted on an Over Head one


Firing!!



After about 3 hours come in to hydrate and fuel backup  up for another session. Decide to take the go pro out for some shots this session. A touch smaller but user friendly and super glassy still.


Still  breaking perfect with some lengthy cover ups in about waist deep water.


Playful little pits just off the beach. Air temp 85 .Water 78. 




Hard to air drop in on some steep pitching waves  with the cam cupped in my hand and get the shot . Gave it a go a few times and almost got the tube shot I was looking for but instead some Johnson + Johnson shampoo treatment.Lots of fun trying though..


Another fun one coming out of a little cover up and eyeing up back dooring the next little tube on the same wave. .Only played with the water camera about one hour out of the six I spent surfing that day .Always nice to get the cam out in the water for a few shots though.. Next swell hopefully I  can grab the shot I'm looking for. Dream day on the Outer Banks!



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